A Tour of Lago di Garda

Yesterday, in spite of the drizzle and cloudy weather (and because we had already bought our tickets), we did a boat tour of Lago di Garda for 42 Euros and, before I talk about that, I have to say, I am getting very tired of having to fix the predictive spelling feature which changes Lago to Lagos every time I type that word!  It turned out to be a bit of a long day although I'm pretty sure we would have felt better about it if the weather had been warm and sunny.  We started off at 8:45 by crossing the lake to pick up more people in Limone (about 40 people, mostly Germans) and then headed south toward Sirmione at the southern tip of this, the largest lake in Italy.  We arrived there about 11:30 passing along the way some pretty spectacular scenery, particularly the highway and the roads that are more or less carved into the mountain on the west side of the lake.  It seems to me to be a pretty impressive engineering feat.

We are planning to take this route when we head for Lago Como tomorrow

It's a little hard to spot the upper road in this photo (bridge and tunnels)
but the lower lakeside one with tunnel holes is easier to spot 

Not planning to take this road but I thought it was amazingly placed

Before reaching Sirmione, we passed Gargnano, the location of Villa Feltrinelli which was the official headquarters of Mussolini’s Republic of Salo (no idea what that means) from 1943 to 1945.

Villa Feltrinelli

When we reached Sirmione, we shopped a bit and then went for lunch at a lakeside restaurant where, for the first time, the service was a bit unfriendly.  After that, we had to have a gelato at one of Sirmione's famous gelaterias.  I'd never had a meringue one before and it was delicious even though the weather was a bit cool for that sort of thing.  We departed Sirmione at 1:30 heading for Bardolino.  Along the way we passed the Catullo Grottos named after Catullus, a Latin poet who died in 54 A.D. The grottoes are actually the remains of a Roman villa, the largest residence ever built in northern Italy.  Apparently, during the Renaissance, the term “grotto” or “cavern” was used to designate collapsed buildings overgrown with vegetation into which one entered as if they were a natural grotto.  

One of the famous gelaterias in Sirmione -
Gluten-free, dairy-free, sugar-free, and regular - they have it all!

The Castillo Grottos

Next, we docked in Bardolino where we had another 1 ½ hours.  Most of this time was spent checking out shops although we did stop for a glass of wine on the lake front before setting off again.  We got back to Malcesine just before 5 and both agreed the day was a little long, particularly given the weather.  I am pretty sure these photos would look much better in the sunshine.  We finished the day by eating at a very casual, simple and inexpensive restaurant just up the road from the hotel.  I'd had a lot of fun the last time I was there with Mena and Trevor.  This time, it was more subdued (not many people) but adequate for what we wanted.

Dinner at Laide, casual nearby restaurant

Next up:  Menaggio on Lago Como where, hopefully, the weather will improve.  You just have so much more energy and photos look so much better when it is sunny!  The sun did make sort of an appearance later this afternoon so, hope springs eternal!

   

From the Sea to the Lakes

Yesterday we left the spectacular Amalfi Coast and Mediterranean Sea and traded them for the lakes of northern Italy. 

Front door and patio of our apartment in Praiano

Lemon Tree (lemons the size of grapefruits!) on our patio

We had a driver take us to Naples Airport (about a two hour drive away) for our flight to Verona via Roma.  There, we picked up a car and thanks to Mindy (my Garmin) we got out of the airport area and onto the autostrada without a problem.  Leaving the autostrada after about 15 km, we drove up the east shore of the lake north to our first stop, Val di Sogno, just outside Malcesine on Lago di Garda.  I first discovered this place 13 years ago and always look forward to returning.  The village itself is charming and this area also has breathtakingly beautiful scenery. And, who says you can't go back!  Today, we walked the village (about 2 km from our hotel) along the Lungolago (lake walkway) admiring the views of the mountains, lake and village in the distance.  It was all as perfect as it has been every other time I have been here.  The combination of the lake and mountains is captivating.

This is the view from Nawal's room - mine is similar

Looking north toward Malcesine

Malcesine on our walk from the hotel

 

View if the lake from the Castello

"My bar" in Malcesine - the red building

Our wine and the view from the bar - perfect!

We finished the day by having dinner at La Voglia, a restaurant I'd eaten at a few years ago with my friends, Mena and Trevor.  It was perfect then and it was even more perfect (is that possible?) now!  We had an amazing starter of pear and cheese bundles (the bundles were made of pasta) and garnished with pine nuts.  I think it was one of the best appetizers I've had anywhere.  And, we won't talk about our desserts:  a chocolate "volcano" and an amaretti semifreddo with a dark chocolate sauce.  Good thing we walked over 15,000 steps today!  Next up:  an all day boat tour of the lake with stops at Sirmione and Bardolino tomorrow. 

Villa dei Misteri

Pompeii, with its Villa dei Misteri (villa of mysteries - or is that miseries?), is where our travels took us yesterday.  Aside from the miseries that took place there in 79 AD killing over 5000 people, we had plenty of our own misery, on a much lesser scale, trying to get there and back.  We caught the 8:30 bus to Sorrento.  Actually, the bonus was that we got a seat which is much needed on this winding coastline (as I have mentioned already but cannot emphasize enough).  At Sorrento, we crossed the road from the bus stop to the train station where we purchased a guided tour for Pompeii from a guy who assured us we would not have to wait, and then got the train to Pompeii Scavi (excavations).  I guess the Italians have a different definition the word "wait" than I do!  So, we reached the destination where we were told we now had to wait for the next train to come in because there were people on it who had also purchased tickets.  That took 1/2 hour!  Then, with the guide we walked to the ticket booth where we waited in line for another 20 minutes.  I asked the guide why we had to stay in line when we had  been told we'd be given priority.  She replied we only get that when the line is long.  Not sure what her definition of "long" is - but then again, the Italians aren't really good at lines either!

Okay, on to the more serious business of the Pompeii excavation site.  Pompeii was an ancient Roman town-city near modern Naples.  Pompeii, along with Hurculaneum and many villas in the surrounding area, was mostly destroyed and buried under 4 to 6 m of volcanic ash and pumice in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD.  Researchers believe that the town was founded in the seventh or sixth century BC by the Osci or Oscans.  It became a Roman colony in 80 BC after it joined an unsuccessful rebellion against the Romans.  By the time of its destruction, 160 years later, its population was estimated at 11,000 people.  The eruption destroyed the city, killing its inhabitants and burying it under tons of ash. Evidence for the destruction originally came from a surviving letter by Pliny the Younger, who saw the eruption from a distance and described the death of his uncle. The site was then lost until 1748.  The objects that lay beneath the city were preserved for centuries because of the lack of air and moisture. These artifacts provide an extraordinarily detailed insight into the life of a city during the Pax Romana.  During the excavation, plaster was used to fill in the voids in the ash layers that once held human bodies. This allowed one to see the exact position the person was in when he or she died.  Pompeii has been a tourist destination for over 250 years. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Italy, with approximately 2.5 million visitors every year (from Wikipedia).

Unfortunately, my camera "died" about 1/3 of the way through our tour but here are a few photos I did manage to take and, besides, I didn't really want a photo of the cast of a dead child, a terrorized dog, and a pregnant woman trying to protect her unborn child from the ashes anyway!

The amphitheatre - when we arrived here someone from
another tour group was singing something from opera
and the acoustics were perfect.

Stepping stones across a main road spaced so chariot wheels could go between them

The atrium in one of the well-preserved villas

Later, we had more frustration on our return journey - waited an hour for a train then later, back in Sorrento, found we were at the wrong bus stop even though our morning bus driver told us that was where to stand for the "rittorno" (at least we got a seat in the second row of the bus after much pushing and shoving).  Back in Praiano, after a short rest, we treated ourselves to a taxi (sort of a golf cart actually) ride with Paolo (our second favourite guy in this village) to and from Vivaro, the restaurant where we ate a couple of nights ago.  It was a much quieter evening there even though it was a Friday.  Genarro, the guy who runs it talked to us quite a lot and this time he cooked me a steak and, for Nawal, ravioli with beef and a salad.  We had wine and dessert as well.  So, here is the question:  when you are at a restaurant with a set price for food of 30 Euros per person, not including wine, why is the bill for two at the end of the evening 54 Euros when you've had Prosecco plus wine?  I have come to the conclusion that Genarro charges according to how much he likes you - and, thankfully, he seemed to like us!  Anyway, for our last evening here, it was fun. 

 

One Word: Capri!

Yesterday, we went to Capri and it was simply amazing and the best day of the vacation so far.  We started off meeting a driver who took us to the little Marina de Praia - the only water access here in Praiano.  We boarded a Zodiac with a young couple from Georgia for the short but bumpy ride to Positano where we joined 8 other people on a bigger boat (still not large) for the ride to Capri.  The coastline was surprisingly similar and just as spectacular as the one between Bandol and Marseilles in the south of France that I toured last year.  It took about 2 hours to get to the island which we circled before docking at Marina Grande, the large port where all the ferries and boats come in.  On the way there, we stopped at several grottos.  We had hoped to see the famous Blue Grotto but, because the seas were a bit rough, it wasn't open.  It was a mixed blessing:  I was disappointed not to see it but it did give us more time to explore the island which, even at that, wasn't enough.  If I ever get back here, I would try to spend one night on Capri. Here are some photos of the trip there.

In the distance, Faraglione di Terra, Faraglione di Mezzo
 (Stella) and Faraglione di Fuori (Scopolo)

One of Grottos we visited

More of the Coastline

Stella and Scopolo closer up (we went through the arch)

Another Grotto (can't remember which one)

In Capri, 8 of us from the boat teamed up to hire a tour bus (10 Euros per person) to take us to Anacapri where we went up the chair lift to the top of the Monte Solaro, the highest point on the island to admire the amazing views, and then back to Capri where we had lunch.  I am not sure we ever did see the famous Piazza Umberto I there because, the next thing we knew, it was time to get back to the boat for return trip.  Again, the scenery was stunning and, at one point when we reached a pretty cove, the skipper brought out snacks and Prosecco for everyone.  Impressive - and probably the closest thing I will ever get to sipping champagne on a yacht!   

Views of the Fragliones from Monte Solaro

Nawal ahead of me on the chairlift down

View of Anacapri from the chairlift

Yes, there are fries on that pizza ordered by one of our group

View of Positano from the boat

Sea view of Praiano - our apartment is up there somewhere

Once back in Positano, thankfully we didn't have to switch to the Zodiac for the trip to Praiano.  The skipper lives there so we just stayed aboard.  Much easier and way easier on our backs!  We finished the day eating at a well known restaurant called Vivaro.   We went there just after 6 (and were the only people there) so we could have an early evening.  However, we ended up staying at the restaurant until 10 p.m.  It was so much fun!  What makes Vivaro unique is there is no menu.  The owner, who also does the cooking and serving, just asks you if you want meat or fish and he then lists off what he has and how he would cook it for you.  The meals are 30 Euros and include wine.  He brings lots of extra goodies - like a wonderfully cooked giant prawn with some pasta and a scrumptious dessert with complimentary liqueurs (one was a crema di melons and the other was limoncella which this area is so famous for).  What a day although we were exhausted!   

The World's Most Beautiful Stairmaster!

Suffice it to say, when you stay in an area with geography like there is here on the Amalfi Coast with villages tumbling down from the hillsides to the sea, you get nowhere unless you are prepared to walk up and down stairs - lots of them!  Just leaving our apartment, we have 32 steep stairs to go up to reach the pedestrian alleyway which leads up to the road.  The pedestrian alleyway doesn't have stairs but it does have a fairly steep slope for part of it.  Once on the road, it is downhill to the main highway but that does mean going up on our way home.  My calves and thighs are sore but I know this is good for me!  

Today we went to Positano and, if you know how that village is situated, you already know it meant hiking up and down lots of stairs and steep alleyways.  Of course, the effort is worth it.  You are rewarded with the winding alleys and little squares that are the essence of Positano although it could possibly be argued that linen shops are its true core.  We took the bus here - another harrowing experience because the bus is always crowded and there are nearly no rails or handles for standing passengers to hold onto.  Lots of fun!

View of Positano close to the bus stop -
so we walked from here down to the water

One of the many linen shops

 
 So, we wandered down, down, down stopping in the various ceramic and linen shops.  There was certainly lots to see, not to mention buy.  My big purchase was a 20 Euro bracelet and, given that I already wear a watch on one arm and two bracelets on the other, I'm not exactly sure in hindsight where I am going to put it.  My partner in crime had much more success and we won't talk about her purchases, suffice it to say "linen".  Anyway, we meandered all the way down to the beach where we found a seaside restaurant (La Pergola) where we had lunch. 

La Pergola Restaurant on the beach

Nawal's Octopus Salad

Then it was back up the stairs but, I have to confess, not all the way.  We opted for the little local bus that runs between Praiano and Positano so we only had to go up about half the way.  Of course, we did still have that hill to climb up back in Praiano so no guilt here!  At the entrance to Praiano from the Positano direction, there is a statue we noticed when we first arrived.  It is called "The Conversation" and the sculptor dedicated it to his mother.  We both thought it was charming.

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Marvelling at Ravello

We delayed our morning start by an hour because it was raining  - again!  I'm getting a little tired of wearing jeans and a rain jacket!  Everyone keeps saying the weather will be better tomorrow but "a domani" never seems to come!

Below is a photo of the tunnel I've talked about that we walk through several times a day (sometimes at night) sharing the road with the crazy Italian drivers. 


The "famous" tunnel - for both two-way traffic and pedestrians

Okay, here's even more about those roads.  Until now, I thought walking along them was as harrowing as it could get. Wrong!  After the bus ride to Amalfi, I have totally changed my mind.  Taking that "leap of faith" is essential when you get onto one of the local SITA buses for the ride along this coastline.  You simply have to trust the driver is going to stay on the road and not hit the oncoming traffic. I keep reminding myself that I did drive this road about 5 years ago and survived.  There were moments today when I wondered if on this trip I would have a different fate.  The road sometimes can barely accommodate the two way traffic but, occasionally, there are police and signal lights to manage it.  The main way of dealing with it, however, is for the bus driver to honk several times just before he negotiates every turn and we all pray that any oncoming traffic will hear it - not always the case as we found out on the return from Ravello when the driver slammed on his brakes stopping just before hitting the oncoming vehicle and throwing all of use forward in our seats.  Maybe these roads should be restricted to Mini Coopers and Fiats - much more civilized but so not Italian!  No wonder those bus drivers are crabby, almost nasty, when you ask them questions; they are totally stressed from driving these damn roads!  Many times on the ride to Amalfi, it seemed to me that we were teetering on the edge of the road which dropped of abruptly to the sea about 300 meters below.  And, those guardrails, such as they were, wouldn't have held back a baby carriage let alone a bus!  Unfortunately, I took only one photo out the window on the trip to Amalfi as the bus was packed and we weren't near a window.  I managed to crop the one below to remember the fabulous scenery.

Sorry about the head of the pedestrian.  Looks like he has
his hands on his head  - perhaps surrendering in fear to the bus driver?
More likely praying for his life!

About now, I should mention that Costiera Amalfitana (Amalfi Coast) is a UNESCO World Heritage site.  It was given this distinction because, to quote from the website, "it is an outstanding example of a Mediterranean landscape, with exceptional cultural and natural scenic values resulting from its dramatic topography and historical evolution." 

Arriving in Amalfi, we bought tickets for the tourist bus to Ravello.  It had an open roof so it was much more conducive to photo taking.  I had missed this village when I was here last time so really wanted to see it.  The town (village?) was established in the 6th century and has had a mixed history - sometimes in favour of aristocratic families and in others, in decline.  It is rich in art treasures, architecture and churches.  In Villa Rufolo is the garden where Richard Wagner found his magical garden of Klingsor (which explains why there is a café outside the villa of the same name.  The Wagner Festival takes place here every year and classical music concerts are held in Ravello throughout the year. 

Looking down on the gardens at Villa Rufolo



Vistas from Villa Rufolo

 

Lunch at the Hotel Rufolo

Later we took the bus back to Amalfi and another bus back to Praiano.  It was just as "interesting" a ride back as on the way there.  Here is a photo of the road down from Ravello and, yes, buses go around that hairpin curve.  Yikes!

Road from Ravello to Amalfi



It's getting better all the time!

Somehow channelling lyrics from the Beatles is so much "more me" than using quotes from Donald Trump!  Both yesterday and today, we woke up to showers which was not exactly conducive to us wanting to get out and explore.  However, by about noon yesterday, the rain had stopped and we went out to venture a little further - not much, mind you!  So, we walked east toward the little marina of Praia and stopped for lunch at Lucanda Costa Diva with views through the lemon trees out to sea.  For the record, we never did reach the Marina di Praia but I think that is where the boat for Capri will leave from on Wednesday. 

So typically Italian - this in a parking area

Lemons at our lunch stop

 After lunch, we walked back along the road.  I really need to say something about that.  The road along the coast here was carved out of the very steep hillsides.  Not much thought was given, in my opinion, to accommodating cyclists and pedestrians.  So, you literally share the road (sometimes a little too closely) with speeding cars and crazy motorcyclists.  This is not for the faint of heart, I assure you.  Add to that, the part of the walk into Praiano which involves going through a tunnel.  Thankfully, at night, it is well lit.  I am very pleased the flashlight app on my iPhone works so well.  Without it, the walk would be even scarier!

Around "happy hour" time, we walked back to "our" terrace at La Dolce Vista for what seems to be our daily glass of Prosecco.  Some may pray to God for their daily bread but I guess our wishes lie elsewhere.  The fog from Sunday had lifted and we were rewarded with even more breathtaking views of the coastline all the way to Capri - our destination for Wednesday, weather permitting. On the walk back, the sun was shining on the little church in the square.  We opted for a pizza (shared) and some white wine for dinner at Che Bonita, a very casual but highly rated on Trip Adviser pizza restaurant.  Our big pizza plus half a litre of white wine was less that $15 for the both of us.  A bargain!  All that was left was that walk through the tunnel, up the hill, and then down to our apartment.