Monday, 2 May 2016

Marvelling at Ravello

We delayed our morning start by an hour because it was raining  - again!  I'm getting a little tired of wearing jeans and a rain jacket!  Everyone keeps saying the weather will be better tomorrow but "a domani" never seems to come!

Below is a photo of the tunnel I've talked about that we walk through several times a day (sometimes at night) sharing the road with the crazy Italian drivers. 

The "famous" tunnel - for both two-way traffic and pedestrians

Okay, here's even more about those roads.  Until now, I thought walking along them was as harrowing as it could get. Wrong!  After the bus ride to Amalfi, I have totally changed my mind.  Taking that "leap of faith" is essential when you get onto one of the local SITA buses for the ride along this coastline.  You simply have to trust the driver is going to stay on the road and not hit the oncoming traffic. I keep reminding myself that I did drive this road about 5 years ago and survived.  There were moments today when I wondered if on this trip I would have a different fate.  The road sometimes can barely accommodate the two way traffic but, occasionally, there are police and signal lights to manage it.  The main way of dealing with it, however, is for the bus driver to honk several times just before he negotiates every turn and we all pray that any oncoming traffic will hear it - not always the case as we found out on the return from Ravello when the driver slammed on his brakes stopping just before hitting the oncoming vehicle and throwing all of use forward in our seats.  Maybe these roads should be restricted to Mini Coopers and Fiats - much more civilized but so not Italian!  No wonder those bus drivers are crabby, almost nasty, when you ask them questions; they are totally stressed from driving these damn roads!  Many times on the ride to Amalfi, it seemed to me that we were teetering on the edge of the road which dropped of abruptly to the sea about 300 meters below.  And, those guardrails, such as they were, wouldn't have held back a baby carriage let alone a bus!  Unfortunately, I took only one photo out the window on the trip to Amalfi as the bus was packed and we weren't near a window.  I managed to crop the one below to remember the fabulous scenery.

Sorry about the head of the pedestrian.  Looks like he has
his hands on his head  - perhaps surrendering in fear to the bus driver?
More likely praying for his life!
About now, I should mention that Costiera Amalfitana (Amalfi Coast) is a UNESCO World Heritage site.  It was given this distinction because, to quote from the website, "it is an outstanding example of a Mediterranean landscape, with exceptional cultural and natural scenic values resulting from its dramatic topography and historical evolution." 

Arriving in Amalfi, we bought tickets for the tourist bus to Ravello.  It had an open roof so it was much more conducive to photo taking.  I had missed this village when I was here last time so really wanted to see it.  The town (village?) was established in the 6th century and has had a mixed history - sometimes in favour of aristocratic families and in others, in decline.  It is rich in art treasures, architecture and churches.  In Villa Rufolo is the garden where Richard Wagner found his magical garden of Klingsor (which explains why there is a café outside the villa of the same name.  The Wagner Festival takes place here every year and classical music concerts are held in Ravello throughout the year. 
Looking down on the gardens at Villa Rufolo


Vistas from Villa Rufolo
 
Lunch at the Hotel Rufolo

Later we took the bus back to Amalfi and another bus back to Praiano.  It was just as "interesting" a ride back as on the way there.  Here is a photo of the road down from Ravello and, yes, buses go around that hairpin curve.  Yikes!
Road from Ravello to Amalfi



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