An Everlasting Love

Well after spending a rather wet weekend (but still fun) near Zürich, Monday I took the train from Feldmeilen to Zürich where I changed to a train headed for Freiberg near the edge of the Black Forest in Germany.  From there, I transferred to a regional train that stopped at 7 villages heading north in the direction of Offenburg before I got off in Orschweier to meet up with my friend, Sue, who lives in Alsace.

For those of you who don't know, the Rhine river in this area forms the border between France and Germany.  On the French side, between the river and the Vosges mountains is the area known as Alsace.  This area has gone back and forth between France and Germany many times and, therefore, the culture, language, food and architecture here are an interesting melange between the two countries.  The first time I came to Europe in 1979, there were only three places I wanted to see:  Lago Maggiore (because of that film, Rome Adventure, I saw in the early 1960s), Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria (because I had done a needlepoint of it and later found out it was a real castle), and Alsace.  I have no idea how I knew about that region of France but, for some reason, I think it might have been a novel I'd read about the Resistance movement there during WWII but I really don't know.  IWhat I do know is that, from the moment I walked around the streets of Strasbourg and later in the same trip set my eyes on Ribeauville (one of the famous wine villages), I fell in love with this part of Europe.  That love has endured now for nearly 40 years and has not wavered.  Of course, it also helps that, on my second visit here with my mother, I discovered there was a Canadian (Sue) living here with whom I had a connection.  It is a bit of a long story but her mother and my father belonged to the same camera club in Victoria so when Mom and I came here, Sue's mother suggested we meet Sue and her husband, Keith.  The rest, as they say, is history.  How blessed was I to become very good friends with two people who live in one of my favourite places in the world!

Okay, back to the "here and now".  The weather woes continue to plague me (I expect I am not getting much sympathy back home about that) but today when Sue and I went into Strasbourg the rain held off and later in the afternoon, the sun even peeked through the clouds.  Strasbourg, as you probably know, is the seat of the European Parliament as well as the major city in this part of France.  We wandered around a new part of the city where a shopping centre has opened.  It was not that different to shopping in other cities:  Mango, Sephora, Gap, etc. were all there.  Then, we crossed the River Ill and walked into the old town.  Strasbourg's gothic cathedral is breathtaking - and very difficult to photo - and the very old La Petite France area with its half-timbered buildings is lovely.  I'm not sure if I am going to get to the Alsace wine villages on this trip but, If I do, there will be more photos later of that. In the meantime, here are a few photos of today's visit to Strasbourg. 

Intricate carvings on the side of the catedral

Looking up at the cathedral - and see that spot of blue sky!

The square in front of the cathedral

In the "La Petite France" part of the city

Which is also known as "The Tanners District"

More of the half-timbered buildings

Another Strasbourg street

I am also very aware that my time over here is fast drawing to a close.  Saturday, I will take the train to Frankfurt airport and stay there overnight before my flight home on Sunday.  Not sure if there will be any more to blog about but I guess that depends on what Sue and I get up to over the next couple of days - and, oh yes, the weather!

A Complete Change of Venue and . . .

Well, as I mentioned in the last post, Thursday saw a complete change of venue for me.  I traded the big city of Milano for the village of Feldmeilen, only a 15 minute train ride from Zürich.  The journey from Milano Centrale to the Zürich Hauptbahnhof took four hours and the route retraced some of the places I'd seen over the last couple of weeks as the train went through Como, along Lake Lugano and then stopped at the city of the same name before heading north through Bellinzona (we had accidentally gone there when we were heading for Cannero Riviera).  Next, we went through the San Gotthard tunnel - not the one used by cars, obviously - before heading further north and east along Vierwaldstattersee (Four Canton Lake, the one Luzern is on) stopping at Zug before reaching Zürich.  Along the way, I tried to capture some of the spectacular scenery as we travelled through the Alpine countryside but it was a bit difficult to do from the fast-moving train and the less than pristine windows.  Hopefully, some of the photos will give you an idea of the journey.

Solders on the train platform in the Milano Centrale Station



Lago Lugano from the train

Looking over Bellinzona

On the north side of San Gottard tunnel

Somewhere along Vierwaldstattersee

The trip itself was relatively uneventful.  I bought my ticket in advance (a good thing to do if you can "lock in" a date and time as you save a ton of money).  My First Class ticket cost about 43CHF back in March;  when I checked the price for the same ticket on Wednesday, it was 135CHF!  The open compartment I was in didn't have a lot of seats and only three of them were occupied when we started out.  Three young Middle Eastern guys who spoke only Arabic although I think they understood English were in them.  They offered me a cookie so my impression of them being potential terrorists (how is that for being paranoid!!!) was erased.  The only strange thing that happened was when we were in Lugano, a very large woman dressed in an Santa suit (hat, pants and jacket) came on the train muttering and shouting.  Bear in mind that it was 28' so her outfit was both seasonally and weatherise inappropriate.  It was pretty obvious she had "mental issues".  She sat down in the row behind us and continued to rant and mutter.  I thought to myself at least when the conductor comes along he will sort her out and move her along to her proper seat.  Well, stupid me!  He came along, checked her ticket and I guess she was in First Class along with the rest of us because she stayed there.  I felt a bit sorry for her as she clearly had problems.  Other than that, nothing happened on the journey.

I arrived in Zürich on time - we are no longer in Italy where schedules seemed to be more like guidelines or suggestions - and within 10 minutes had transferred to the regional train for the short ride to Herrliberg/Feldmeilen.  It was great to see Kathrin again and settle into her and Roger's home.  After all the traveling the last four weeks, being with a family doing "normal" things was a nice change - not that I didn't love every minute of the other.  We sat outside for dinner sipping a lovely Valpolicella wine; I guess I haven't left Italy completely behind!

Roger and Kathrin's Townhouse

Friday evening, I met some other friends, Andrea and Oliver Axnick (a Swiss gal and her German husband) for dinner.  He curled for the German national curling team at several Olympic Games, including in Torino and Vancouver where I was lucky enough to be able to cheer for them in both places.  Andrea's brother, Ralph Stockli, skipped CH to the bronze medal in Vancouver.  So, in a way, I have switched from the arts (and the Oscar winner I coincidentally met in Lago Como) to sports celebrities (at least in some circles).  It was great to see Oli and Andrea again.  I have only seen them once or twice since I went to their wedding 11 years ago.  We went to an Italian restaurant nearby.  I didn't have the heart to tell them Italian food was the very last thing I wanted!  The restaurant was on Lake Zürich and, while we were having dinner, we could hear thunder and see lightning.  As we left the restaurant, we could see the storm quickly moving across the lake toward us.  We almost, but not quite, made it back to Roger and Kathrin's before it hit in full force.  We got totally soaked as we ran to their entrance but at least we missed the hail that came shortly afterward!

Evidence of the storm - above the rain and below the hail. 

We spent the rest of the evening inside with all the kids having a great time together.  Both couples have a boy and a girl and the boys and the girls are around the same age so they all played happily together while the adults had a great visit.  It worked out so much better than spending a lot of time in the restaurant.  All in all, in spite of being soaked in the storm, it was a great evening.

Oli (left) and Roger (right)



Ciao, Italia; Next Up: Switzerland

Well, it is hard to believe that my nearly four weeks in Italy are coming to an end.  This morning, before Nawal left, we took the metro to another part of Milano, a neighbourhood we hadn't explored yet but had heard about.  The Brera area turned out to be charming - which makes me think I might need to give this city another chance to discover some of its magic (assuming there is some).  The following are some photos of the Brera neighbourhood, including the jewellery store and my morning "lampone e mangue" (raspberry and mango) sorbet cornetto (very yummy and scooped to look like a flower).

The Brera neighbourhood is filled with little pedestrian streets, unique and independent shops, and pretty little restaurants, bars and gelaterias.  We went there because of an ad in Where magazine Nawal saw for a jewellery designer.  As I say, it is too bad we didn't discover this area earlier as it would have been a great place have dinner (most of the restaurants around the train station leave a lot to be desired - although we found one good one where I am going back to this evening).  Aside from the shopping Nawal did there, we did stop for a gelato, as it was her last chance before she headed to the airport midday for her flight to Amsterdam. 

Ciao, Nawal.  It was a wonderful time and a lot of fun!

This weekend, I think I have mentioned, the UEFA Cup final is being held here so tomorrow is probably a good time to leave.  Andrea Bocelli is teaming up on stage here this evening with Javier Zanetti (don't know who he is) for a charity event featuring a line-up of big names in the world of music and football.  Next, I will take a train to Zürich and start the next part of my trip - this will involve less sightseeing, shopping and probably less blogging and will focus more on spending time with good friends.  I am sure, however, there will still be some stories to write about! 

We spotted this sign at the cashier in a small alimentari (grocery store) back in Lago di Garda and I thought it was an appropriate way to end the Italy part of the blog.  In hindsight, I now wish I had taken photos of the menus we saw that had "interesting" spellings for food items or strange translations.  Ciao, Italia!

   

Milano and a Bit of Culture

We have now spent 2 days in this city and I am trying to figure out why it isn't captivating me.  I've come to the conclusion that it might be because there are no iconic sights here like in London, Paris, Berlin and Rome.  Aside from the Duomo and La Scala, I haven't recognized a single famous building - now maybe that is just me.  What we have recognized are the famous and no so famous names of fashion:  Prada, Versace, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Jimmy Choo, Chanel, Dior and on and on it goes.  Sunday, we walked down a pedestrian street where they all were - closed but there.  Yesterday in the rain and occasional hail, we did two of the three Hop On/Hop Off bus tours.  Even with good weather, I doubt I would have taken many photos.  Here are some I've taken as we've walked and bus-toured around the city:
 

The famous Duomo

Statue of Garibaldi - every northern Italian town, city or village seems to have one

Milan Headquarters for Michael Kors

 

Inside the Galleria

A "not so anonymous" but ardent shopper!

After doing some shopping this morning along the Via Buenos Aires, we decided to take a tour of La Scala which included the theater itself and the museum.  When we visited the boxes, we were lucky enough to see a rehearsal underway.  I think it was of Der Rosenkavalier.  It seemed strange to see everyone singing opera in jeans and running shoes.  The museum contained an interesting collection of pianos (or similar instruments) as well as lots of portraits.  Not being student of classical music, I am afraid much of it was a bit lost on me but I did recognize the portraits of Maria Callas and Rudolf Nureyev.  After our tour, the heat (what a change from yesterday!) had pretty much done us in so we took the metro back to our hotel.

Lunch at il Salotto di Milano in Galleria Victoria Emanuele II

Even dogs get served drinks in restaurants here!

La Scala

Inside the Theatre Reception Area

This and the following are photos of some of the musical instruments in the museum

Portrait of Maria Callas

Portrait of Rudolf Nureyev

A few observations of Milan:  I would estimate that more than 50% of the Italians here smoke.  It is really astounding and such a change from back home and even in other parts of Europe.  Also, there is currently a huge police presence.  I'm not sure if it is because the UEFA Cup final is being held here on Saturday or if there is something else going on but I can tell you they are everywhere - on the streets, at the subway entrances and on the platforms, and wandering through the galleria and arcades.  At least one feels safe with them around.  Lastly, I have seen more "beautiful" people in this city than anywhere, including the Cote d'Azur.  Both young and old are dressed "to the nines" (whatever that means) and I never knew how skinny really skinny jeans could be - both on men and women!  The tourists are pretty easy to spot, especially North Americans, schlepping around in capris and trainers.  It has been in interesting visit and I am glad I saw a bit of this city but, as I said earlier, I am still waiting for this city to captivate me.  The question is whether or not I will give it another chance.  We did eat at a lovely restaurant last evening and I am going to go back there tomorrow on my own for my last evening here.  Nawal heads home via Amsterdam tomorrow midday.  Next up for me:  Switzerland and visits with my friends there.



Les Trois Defis - and more!

When we left San Mamete Sunday morning after getting our last lake "fix" by having breakfast at a table right beside the lake, I suspected we would have three challenges ("defis") ahead of us this day.  I really try not to be much of a worrier - my mother was a champion at that and it was mostly not pretty - but I was a bit concerned about a few things that had to be accomplished between there and Milan. 

The moon over Lake Lugano from my balcony Saturday evening

The breakfast terrace at Stella d'Italia

The first challenge of the day was getting the car backed out of the garage onto the main road running through the village.  Thankfully, there was nothing coming in either direction - you had to figure this out more by listening than actually seeing the oncoming traffic given the bends in the road.  Thankfully, the road was quiet (perhaps everyone was still at church) so the first challenge went fine.  We got on the road toward Mennagio and then to Como without a problem.  For some reason “Mindy” didn’t seem to have a clue where we were (seemed to think we were on an autostrada and kept telling us to take an exit, enter a roundabout and turn left.  That would have put us in the lake!  Very strange but, thankfully, we knew how to get to Como.  The road along the lake was busy – cyclists, motorcycles, campers, etc. (often oncoming in the middle of the road) but it was still scenic and a lot easier to drive than in the dreadful weather conditions when we first arrived there. 

Getting gas was our next challenge – and it proved to be quite an experience.  First off, the gas station was closed and the pumps were automatic so you had to enter a credit card, get it authorized, enter the pump number, and then quickly start to pump the gas.  However, little did we know there was a trick to putting the nozzle into our diesel gas tank.  You had to turn it 45’ in one direction, put it in, then twist it back.  It took me a couple of tries to cotton on that and to get that done before the credit card transaction timed out.  Nawal also tried but that complicated it further because she was the one authorizing the card so lost precious seconds getting from the machine to the pump.  Finally, someone working at the station (even though it was closed) come out to help us much to the happiness of the other cars and motorcycles watching and waiting for us to be finished.  By the time we were finished both Nawal and I smelled like gas jockeys and, of course, because the station was closed, there nowhere to wash our hands.  Eau de Benzin permeated the car.  Anyway the second challenge finally behind us. 



My "evidence" of the car being dropped off.

On to the third, and the one I was most concerned about:   where and how to drop the car.  When we rented the car in Verona, we had been told the office at the train station was closed on Sundays.  However, we were instructed to just leave the car in the parking lot at the train station and drop off the keys.  I stupidly didn't ask for more details.  Besides, they gave me a phone number to call if there were any problems.  I also assumed there would be some sort of signage indicating where Hertz cars should be left and an office where the keys should be pushed through the mail slot.  Okay, that sounds logical, right?  Well, at the Como train station there is absolutely no signage for rental car return at all.  The word "Hertz" is nonexistent at the station.  There are plenty of places to park cars but they are metered.  Of course, when I called that "emergency number, there was only a recording saying the office was closed and to leave a message.  We did manage to find a nearby parking lot where I asked the attendant in my "close to non-existent" Italian where a Hertz rental car should be left.  He pointed to a spot near the cashier kiosk, moved a car to make a space for it and told me to park it there.  So, that is where I left it – but not before taking several photos to prove it.  Then the question became where to leave the key.  There was certainly no Hertz rental office inside the station and the people at the Tourist Information office didn't have a clue.  There was a kiosk for another car rental company so I just shoved the keys through the mail slot in that door and hoped it would somehow all work out.  So, the three challenges we faced were done. 

We got our train tickets to Como treating ourselves to first class tickets.  Now, that sounds like something significant, right?  Well, the difference between a second and first class ticket was only €3 so it seemed a no-brainer!  The train, unlike the station which was grotty and dirty, was clean and quiet.  About 45 minutes later we arrived in Milano Centrale, the main station in Milan.  I knew the hotel wasn’t far but, as we had luggage, we took a taxi.  The driver said we were very close but we said we didn’t care.  So, he basically just drove us around the block to our hotel in less than 5 minutes – and it would have been even quicker except for the one way street in front of the hotel!  We did give him a generous tip!  After that, things went pretty smoothly - at least until this morning.

FSS Centrale - Milan's main train station

As an aside, I did call that "emergency" number Monday morning to confirm that the car had been found.  I had a strange conversation with the woman who answered the phone - mostly because I had difficulty understanding her accent when she spoke English.  She did finally ask me if the car was a white Fiat and I said yes.  She said "you cooooda leeva the keeeysa ina the-a Hertza boxa".  I said I couldn't find one.  Then I asked "is everything okay?"  She relied "Si, si.  Everyathinga isa okay".  And so far, none of the many police officers we have seen patrolling Milano have tried to arrest me for car theft so I think it is sorted, as the Brits would say.  Whew! 

Now, I know that I am probably not getting much sympathy when I whine about the weather.  However, this morning was truly dreadful.  We decided to take a “Hop on/Hop off” bus tour which we could pick up at the Centrale station, which we already knew was within a very short walking distance of our hotel!  We bought our tickets (€25) and headed for the bus stop.  However, we were caught in a really serious thunder and lightning storm with bucketing rain and even hail.  We both got soaked even though we had umbrellas.  Imagine Nawal crouching under her umbrella-ella-ella to try to prevent the rain soaking her jeans.  I would have take a photo but a) she would probably have killed me; and, b) the rain would have killed my camera!  It was amazing how much rain accumulated in such a short time.  You had to stand back from the edge of the sidewalk or get completely drenched by the passing cars hitting the standing water.

In the next blog, I will write more about Milan but I can tell you, we were very glad to get yesterday and this morning over with.  The rest of the day had intermittent showers but, thankfully, due to the arcaded shops, that didn't hold us back!   

Lugano

For our last day in the lake region, we decided to visit Lugano in Switzerland.  As we had gotten lost there several times in the car, in spite of having GPS, we decided it would be a whole lot easier to take the bus which only cost 3.10 Euros.  In 20 minutes, we were walking along the lakeshore which has a lovely promenade lined with plane trees and palms.  We walked around the old town which has transformed from the last time I was here about 20 years ago  It now contains high-end shops like Versace, Prada, Louis Vuitton, etc.  I have to confess that I did buy a few things - but in the Coop department store (a cosmetic bag and some "readers").  At least I can say I purchased some stuff on Via Nasso (just not in those designer shops)!  After stopping for a light lunch at a champagne bar on the lake called Luce, we took the ferry back as it was such a fabulous day.  We stopped briefly in Gandria before returning to our hotel around 3:30.  The weather was sunny and warm which made the scenic ferry ride even better.  Now, we have to think about packing up and moving on to Milan tomorrow.

Walking toward the old town in Lugano

Paddleboarder with San Salvatore in the background

The lakeside village of Gandria

Our hotel conveniently next to the little ferry terminal